Whodunnit? The Big 5 Villains Making Your Sensitive Skin React

When your skin suddenly starts doing unusual things when you apply your usual skin and makeup products, it can be pretty alarming. Maybe you’ve tried a new foundation that you believed was going to change your life for the better, only to experience a bumpy rash under the skin. Perhaps you’ve spritzed a heavenly-scented new setting spray and developed hives akin to Woogie from ‘There’s Something About Mary’. It could be that your sexy kajal eyeliner has turned you into a puffer fish. 

The hard truth is that your tolerance to makeup and skincare products can change. Hormones change. The products that were perfectly fine yesterday can suddenly cause dry patches, rashes, hives, mild swelling, itchy and stinging eyes. And it’s often difficult to pin-point the exact culprit. 

A wise doctor once said to me, it’s easier to find a needle in a haystack than to isolate the exact ingredient causing a reaction.

But, never under-estimate a determined makeup junkie! By hell or high water, you can always find a way to look good. 

THE BIG 5 CULPRITS

1. Fragrance.

   
   

   Both synthetic and strong natural fragrances are the biggest cause of cosmetic allergies. Even products that are unscented can contain subtle fragrance to mask the chemical odour. Look for products that are clearly marked ‘fragrance free’. 

   
   

2. Preservatives.

   
   

   Chemicals that prevent bacteria and increase the shelf-life of a beauty product such as parabens, formaldehyde-releasing preservatives (FRPs), and Benzyl Alcohol, can trigger skin allergies and contact dermatitis. More on avoiding these in my shopping guide coming soon.

   
   

3. Colours!

   
   

   Now we’re getting super geeky. It’s absolutely possible that a foundation which is considered safe for sensitive skin may have a few shades in the range that trigger allergies.

   
   

   Carmine - for example - is a red pigment derived from crushed insects, and found in foundations or blushers with warm or pink undertones. Yellow 5 and 6 are used in golden, olive and tan foundations and are common culprits for hives and irritation. (Feels like a minefield, doesn’t it?)

   
   

4. Sunscreen.

   
   

   Yes, it’s essential, but choose wisely. The active ingredients, stabilisers and fragrances in sunscreen can cause instant irritation, a rash that develops over a few days, or the classic stinging eyes. This makes foundations with added SPF hard to tolerate for us sensitive souls. 

   
   

5. Hormones.

   
   

   Those contrary little blighters. Any big fluctuations - highs and lows - can trigger intolerance by altering the skin barrier thickness, moisture retention and immune system response. This is a whole other topic.

   
   

   For now, the takeaway is that at the time of the month, during perimenopause and menopause, and during pregnancy, your skin may be hyper-sensitive to products you normally tolerate well. 

   
   

SO, WHAT'S THE ANSWER?

The good news is, after a bit of light detective work, you can still wear the makeup styles you love and look after your skin. You just need to make some product switches, and learn how to shop like a sensitive skin pro. And I know this from first-hand experience of developing skin intolerances to both eye-makeup, foundations, and skincare, so I've done the deep dive, been down the rabbit holes, and hand-printed the T-shirt.

STEP 1. Investigation.

What type of reaction are you experiencing? The symptoms and their location can help you narrow-down the pesky protagonist. Here are some examples of common symptoms and the usual suspects, but remember everyone reacts to products differently.

• Stinging eyes (can be fragrance in your makeup or skincare, or SPF)

• Swollen / itchy eyelids (eyeshadow, mascara, foundation, skincare)

• Dermatitis - often on and around the eyes (eyeshadow, skincare, shampoo and conditioner)

• Eczema on the face or neck (often down to fragrance)

• Rashes (chemicals and SPF)

• Hives (can be caused by chemicals, specific colours, and fragrance)

STEP 2. Elimination.

Strip back your makeup routine, especially on the areas that are reacting. Switch to a simple, safe cleanser and moisturiser that is fragrance and paraben free, such as La Roche Posay’s Toleraine skincare range. A few days without makeup will pay off. 

Once your skin irritation has cleared, reintroduce your makeup products one at a time, leaving a few days between each. Closely monitor the results. If your skin flairs up, check the ingredients for any common allergens. Don’t bin the product as you may tolerate it perfectly well in the future.

Switch out any culprit products for safe alternatives using a skincare app like SkinSAFE. Don’t rely purely on google searches and magazine top 10s, as these are often product-endorsements. 

STEP 3. Use a Skincare App.

There are a few good skincare apps on the market. I like SkinSAFE. It’s american, but has a huge range of products available in the UK as well as the big international brands. 

It gives products a rating out of 100 based on the ingredients, listing everything from parabens and fragrance to gluten, nickel, and talc. I know that anything with a 100% rating will be fine for me, so I can easily search across categories like eyeshadow palettes and liquid foundations, or for specific products within a brand range, such as Laura Mercier foundations. You’ll be surprised at which brands and products score less than 85%. 

TOP TIP: when you’re browsing for makeup products in the Look Fantastic sale, open a browser tab with SkinSAFE and check the items in your basket are not going to cause skin issues. 

STEP 4. Keep an SOS Skin Kit on standby.

If hormonal changes or stress trigger skin intolerance for you, it’s hard to predict when these will hit. So having a kit of back-up products that are 100% sensitive skin-friendly will allow you to have a circuit-break for a few days or weeks while your skin settles down. You can re-introduce your favourite products and skincare gradually. 

STEP 5. Take An Antihistamine!

It sounds simple but mild allergic reactions like hives can be well-managed with a daily anti-histamine if you have a big event on the cards. 

If you'd like some sensitive skin recommendations, read my Shopping Guide blog post which I'll be dropping here soon!